The question of sustainability in leather is complex and often polarising. On one side, leather is a natural material that lasts decades, potentially reducing consumption. On the other, its production involves animal agriculture and chemical processing with significant environmental impacts. For conscientious consumers, navigating these complexities requires understanding what "sustainable leather" actually means.
In this guide, I'll explore the environmental considerations around leather production, highlight more sustainable options within traditional leather, and examine the growing world of leather alternatives—helping you make choices that align with your values.
The Environmental Impact of Conventional Leather
Understanding the issues helps us appreciate the solutions. Conventional leather production raises several environmental concerns:
Agricultural Impact
Most leather comes from cattle, and cattle farming is associated with significant greenhouse gas emissions, land use, and in some regions, deforestation. While leather is technically a byproduct of the meat industry (hides would otherwise be waste), consumer demand for leather does influence the economics of cattle farming.
Chrome Tanning
Approximately 80-90% of the world's leather is chrome-tanned, a process using chromium salts. While efficient, this produces toxic wastewater that, if improperly treated, contaminates water sources and harms communities near tanneries—particularly in countries with weak environmental regulations.
Chemical Treatments
Beyond tanning, leather processing involves various chemicals for dehairing, preservation, dyeing, and finishing. Many of these substances are hazardous to workers and the environment without proper handling and waste treatment.
A Balanced View
It's worth noting that quality leather's longevity offers environmental benefits. A leather jacket lasting 20+ years has a very different lifecycle impact than multiple synthetic jackets replaced every few years. The sustainability equation isn't straightforward.
More Sustainable Traditional Leather
For those who want real leather but with reduced environmental impact, several options exist:
Vegetable-Tanned Leather
This traditional tanning method uses natural tannins derived from bark, leaves, and other plant materials instead of chromium salts. The process takes weeks rather than hours, making it more expensive, but it avoids the toxic chemicals associated with chrome tanning.
Vegetable-tanned leather offers distinct characteristics:
- Initially stiffer, but develops a beautiful patina with age
- Biodegrades more readily at end of life
- Often has a distinctive natural smell
- Takes dye differently, often resulting in more muted, natural colours
Certified Sustainable Leather
Several certification programs verify sustainable and ethical leather production:
- Leather Working Group (LWG): Audits tanneries for environmental compliance, water usage, energy consumption, and chemical management. Gold-rated tanneries meet the highest standards.
- OEKO-TEX LEATHER STANDARD: Certifies that leather is free from harmful substances and produced in environmentally friendly conditions.
- Responsible Leather Assessment Tool (RLAT): Assesses supply chain transparency and animal welfare standards.
Key Takeaway
When buying traditional leather, look for products from certified tanneries or brands that are transparent about their supply chain. The Leather Working Group certification is particularly meaningful as a verifiable standard.
Upcycled and Deadstock Leather
Some brands create jackets from deadstock leather (unused materials from other manufacturers) or upcycled leather from vintage garments and accessories. This approach gives new life to existing materials without driving new production.
Leather Alternatives
For those who prefer to avoid animal-derived materials entirely, the alternatives have improved dramatically in recent years.
Traditional Synthetic Leather (PU/PVC)
Polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) synthetic leathers have been around for decades. While they avoid animal products, they're petroleum-derived plastics with their own environmental issues, including non-biodegradability and manufacturing emissions. Quality varies enormously—cheap synthetics crack and peel quickly, while premium PU can be durable and aesthetically pleasing.
Next-Generation Bio-Based Materials
Exciting innovations are creating leather alternatives from unexpected sources:
- Mushroom leather (Mycelium): Made from mushroom root structures, materials like Mylo and Reishi offer leather-like properties from a rapidly renewable, low-impact source.
- Pineapple leather (Piñatex): Created from pineapple leaf fibres, a waste product of pineapple farming. The resulting material is durable and distinctive.
- Apple leather: Utilises apple waste from juice production, creating a leather-like material with low environmental footprint.
- Cactus leather (Desserto): Made from nopal cactus, which requires minimal water and no irrigation, making it particularly sustainable.
- Lab-grown leather: Companies are developing genuine leather grown from cells in laboratory conditions, eliminating the need for animal farming entirely.
Reality Check
While these innovations are exciting, many are still in early stages of commercial availability and may not yet match traditional leather's durability and feel. Research specific brands and read reviews before investing significantly in newer alternatives.
Evaluating Sustainability Claims
Greenwashing is common in fashion. Here's how to evaluate sustainability claims critically:
Questions to Ask
- What specific certifications does the leather/material have?
- Can the brand provide supply chain transparency?
- What is the expected lifespan of the product?
- What happens at end of life—is it biodegradable, recyclable, or neither?
- How are workers in the supply chain treated?
Red Flags
- Vague claims like "eco-friendly" without specific details
- No mention of certifications or third-party verification
- Unwillingness to discuss supply chain specifics
- Prices that seem too good for claimed sustainability credentials
Making Your Choice
The most sustainable choice depends on your personal values and circumstances:
If You Choose Traditional Leather
- Prioritise quality that will last decades, not fast fashion
- Look for vegetable-tanned or LWG-certified leather
- Care for your jacket properly to maximise its lifespan
- Consider secondhand or vintage options
- Pass down well-maintained pieces rather than discarding
If You Choose Alternatives
- Research the specific material's environmental footprint
- Invest in quality alternatives from reputable brands
- Consider durability carefully—a longer-lasting product is more sustainable
- Be patient as the technology improves
The Longevity Factor
Perhaps the most sustainable approach, regardless of material, is buying fewer, better items and keeping them longer. A quality piece worn for twenty years has a dramatically lower per-wear environmental impact than multiple cheaper items cycled through your wardrobe.
Sustainability in fashion isn't about perfect choices—it's about making informed decisions that align with your values while acknowledging trade-offs. Whether you choose traditional leather from certified sources, innovative plant-based alternatives, or quality vintage pieces, what matters is that your choice is intentional rather than default.