Finding the right size for a leather jacket is more challenging than with most garments. Unlike cotton or synthetic fabrics, leather has minimal stretch, and alterations are expensive and limited. A poorly fitting leather jacket will never look right, no matter how much you paid for it. Conversely, a well-fitted leather jacket becomes a second skin that enhances every outfit.
In this guide, I'll walk you through exactly how to measure yourself, interpret size charts, and ensure you end up with a leather jacket that fits perfectly from day one.
Why Leather Jacket Sizing Is Different
Before we dive into measurements, it's important to understand why leather jacket sizing requires extra attention:
- Limited stretch: While leather softens and moulds to your body over time, it doesn't stretch significantly in the way knit fabrics do.
- Break-in period: New leather jackets feel stiffer than they will after a few months of wear. You need to account for this without buying too large.
- Style variations: Different jacket styles (biker, bomber, racer) have different intended fits, from snug to relaxed.
- Brand inconsistency: Unlike standardised clothing sizes, leather jacket sizing varies significantly between brands and countries.
Pro Tip
Never rely solely on your usual clothing size when buying a leather jacket. Always measure yourself and compare to the specific brand's size chart. A "Medium" from one brand may fit like a "Large" from another.
How to Measure Yourself
You'll need a flexible measuring tape and ideally a helper, though you can do this alone with a mirror. Measure over a thin t-shirt—this represents the minimum layering you'll wear under your jacket.
Chest Measurement
This is the most critical measurement for leather jacket fit. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your chest, typically just under your armpits and across your shoulder blades. Keep the tape parallel to the floor and snug but not tight. Take a deep breath and measure at the exhale—you want the natural relaxed position.
Shoulder Width
Measure from the edge of one shoulder to the edge of the other, across the back. The edge of your shoulder is the point where your arm begins—where the sleeve seam should sit. This measurement is crucial because shoulder fit cannot be altered on leather jackets.
Sleeve Length
With your arm slightly bent (as it would be when riding a motorcycle or walking naturally), measure from the edge of your shoulder down to your wrist bone. The ideal sleeve length has the cuff hitting at or just past the wrist bone.
Torso Length
Measure from the base of your neck (where a collar would sit) down to where you want the jacket to end. Classic leather jackets typically hit at the hip, but this is a personal preference. Consider your body proportions—longer torsos often suit longer jackets.
Waist and Hip Measurements
For fitted styles like biker jackets, you may also need your natural waist measurement and hip measurement. Measure at your natural waist (the narrowest point, usually just above your navel) and around the fullest part of your hips.
Key Takeaway
Write down all your measurements and keep them handy. They're useful for any leather jacket purchase, whether online or in-store. Remeasure every few years or after significant weight changes.
Understanding Size Charts
Once you have your measurements, comparing them to size charts becomes straightforward. Here's how to interpret what you see:
Chest Size Priority
If you're between sizes based on different measurements, prioritise the chest measurement. A jacket that's tight in the chest will always be uncomfortable and look wrong. Slight adjustments in length or sleeves are easier to work with than chest tightness.
Australian vs International Sizing
Size labels vary by region. Here's a rough guide for men's leather jackets:
- Australian/UK S: 91-96cm chest (US 36-38)
- Australian/UK M: 97-102cm chest (US 38-40)
- Australian/UK L: 103-108cm chest (US 40-42)
- Australian/UK XL: 109-114cm chest (US 42-44)
- Australian/UK XXL: 115-120cm chest (US 44-46)
Women's sizing follows different conventions and varies even more between brands. Always rely on the actual chest, waist, and hip measurements rather than S/M/L designations.
Fitting Guidelines by Style
Biker Jackets
These are designed for a snug, fitted silhouette. The jacket should feel close to the body without restricting movement. When zipped, you should be able to comfortably slide a flat hand between the jacket and your chest. Shoulders must align perfectly—there's no room for error with the structured biker cut.
Bomber Jackets
Bombers have a more relaxed fit by design. The ribbed waistband should sit at your natural waist without riding up. There's more room in the torso than biker jackets, allowing comfortable movement and light layering. Shoulders can be slightly less precise, but still shouldn't drop down your arm.
Racer Jackets
Similar to bikers in their close fit, racers should feel streamlined. The band collar should sit comfortably at the base of your neck. These jackets are cut slightly shorter, often hitting just below the waist rather than at the hip.
Leather Blazers
These follow traditional blazer fitting rules. The shoulder seams should hit exactly at your shoulder points. There should be room for a dress shirt and light sweater underneath. The length typically covers your seat, longer than casual leather jacket styles.
The Movement Test
Once you have the jacket on, move around. Raise your arms above your head, cross them in front of you, reach behind you as if grabbing something from a back pocket. The jacket should accommodate all these movements without excessive pulling or restriction.
Common Fit Problems and Solutions
Shoulders Too Wide
If the shoulder seams drop below your natural shoulder point, the jacket is too big. This cannot be fixed through alterations on leather. Size down or try a different brand with narrower shoulders.
Chest Too Tight
If you can't comfortably zip the jacket or it pulls across the chest, it's too small. Leather won't stretch enough to accommodate this. Size up—a slightly longer jacket is better than one you can't wear comfortably.
Sleeves Too Long
This is one of the few issues that can be altered on leather jackets, though it's expensive. Sleeves can typically be shortened by up to 5cm without affecting the design. If they're longer than that, consider a smaller size if other measurements allow.
Body Too Long
Shortening the body of a leather jacket is difficult and expensive, especially for designs with waist belts or complex hems. If the jacket is significantly too long, try a different size or style.
Online Buying Tips
Buying a leather jacket online is risky, but sometimes necessary. Here's how to minimise risk:
- Check return policies: Only buy from retailers with free returns and adequate return windows (at least 14 days).
- Read reviews: Look for comments about sizing—phrases like "runs small" or "size up" are valuable insights.
- Contact customer service: Many brands will provide additional measurements or sizing advice if you ask.
- Order two sizes: If affordable and returns are free, order your best guess and one size up or down. Return what doesn't fit.
- Measure a well-fitting jacket: If you own a jacket that fits well, measure it laid flat and compare to the product measurements provided.
Taking the time to get sizing right will save you money and frustration. A leather jacket that fits perfectly becomes a wardrobe staple you'll reach for daily. One that doesn't fit will hang in your closet, unworn and unloved. Invest the extra effort upfront—your future self will thank you.